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| Hatch date 20150212 Sire: Tremper sunglow x Dam: Super hypo |
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| This is what a dud egg looks like when it's candled, yellow and lack of veins. |
Sunday, February 15, 2015
Leaping Leos!
20150215 -- A baby leopard gecko hatched today, that makes 3 this season and our dam is going to lay again soon. Check out the wicked noise that the babies make when you first take them out of their egg chamber, see below. Sire: Tremper sunglow x Dam: Super hypo, the candled egg is a dud.
Thursday, January 22, 2015
Sunday, January 18, 2015
Hera (Rainbow Beardies) x Cronos (Where Dragons Dwell) Hatchling
Here is a beautiful little hatchling produced by my 2 favorite breeders of 2014, dam: Hera trans het hypo (Rainbow Beardies) x sire: Cronos trans hypo (WDD import).
Thursday, January 1, 2015
Saturday, March 8, 2014
We Have Eggs Houston
My normal ball python, Cleo, was the first to break the ice this season by laying eggs on March 03, 2014. She laid 10 eggs with 1 slug. 9 eggs are baking in the incubator and the slug is fertilizing my rose bushes. My least favorite part of the incubation process was removing the protective mother from brooding her eggs. I watched a YouTube video by SafariPetsFL and read a care sheet which recommended using a towel over the head of the snake and then uncoiling her from around her egg pile. This method worked out fine and I didn't even need to break out the old snake hook but Cleo does have a great temperament. World of Ball Pythons has a great article that explains the substrateless incubation method using perlite, a sterilite container, water and some egg crate (light diffuser, you can buy it at Lowes) cut to fit the egg box. Thanks Bill Buchman and World of Ball Pythons for the excellent article listed below. I in no way take credit for this article but it's so good I wanted to make sure you guys read it just in case you didn't click on the link above. I've also included some pics below Bill Buchman's article, check them out.
-- Bill Buchman
"I must preface this explanation by saying that this is my second breeding season. I have ONLY used substrateless method and EVERYTHING I have ever hatched has been with that method, traditional method scares me.
This is what I did last season and am doing this season. It works WELL for ME - there are other ways that work WELL for OTHERS.
Last year my season consisted of 62 clutches -- 302 incubated eggs -- 67 slugs -- 10 infertile (candled bad - did not incubate). I don't cook anything that candles bad. I will cook small eggs, boob eggs, spotted eggs, ugly eggs -- just NOT eggs that candle yellow with no veins.
Of the 302 candled eggs that went into the incubator, 4 went bad (during first 3 weeks) and I had 3 kinked -- each from a different clutch. (2 severe) -- the other was a "tweaked egg stressed" KILLER BEE!!! That one hurt.
1.
I set set my Herpstat thermostat at 88.4 in the incubator -- NOT the egg box.
1 a.
SET-UP: I use 6 qrt. Sterlite shoe boxes. I have fit as many as nine eggs in a box. If I have a big clutch I can't fit in one box -- I use 2. I like to use the same containers within my incubators.
2.
Place 1-2 inches of dry mix in box. I have used 60/40 combination of perlite and vermiculite. I prefer 100% perlite. I have the better half of a big bag of vermiculite yet to use. When that is gone PERLITE will be the ticket. It does not conduct water to top/surface of mixture like vermiculite tends too. Therefore, it is better for substrateless method.
3.
Pour in 4-8 oz. of water. (I use tap water. Some people use distilled or put a smidge of chlorhexidine in water. Fresh tap water has worked fine for me). You should be able to see it gather on the bottom, but not sloshing around -- don't need much because almost NONE will escape during the 60 days of incubation.
4.
Place cut to size egg crate on top of level mixture. Remember that the idea is for the eggs NOT to touch the mix. But rather lay on TOP of the crate. I gently set it on and give a little wiggle side to side.
5.
Place eggs in. Center them so they don't touch the sides or top of box when closed. I have no set rule on whether I separate eggs before cooking. If the "pile" is to high to fit in container, I will take of a few off pile so as to fit in box. I don't use dental floss. I gently and slowly pull them apart -- never ripped one -- YET!!!
6.
Put piece of Press N Seal over the top and pull tight over the sides. Place lid on and snap tight. Be careful when putting box in bator. Eggs will roll if separated, and piles will slide to touch the side of the container -- don't want that. After 2-3 weeks, the eggs will flatten a bit and shifting boxes around will be no big deal. I am always shifting mine. During the second 30 days of incubation you will likely get some condensation on the top inside of box -- gathered on inside of Press N Seal. It usually will not drip on the eggs. If it does -- no worries. Eggs After day 40 or so won't be bothered by a drip or two on TOP of them.
I don't usually open the box AT ALL until last 2 weeks/day 45-48. At this time I will take OFF the plastic and put lid back on. This allows for respiration and heat transfer as interior egg temps will rise a bit over the last 2 weeks. If you are the one to check on eggs every week -- go for it. But I don't "breathe" my boxes as a rule, and every time you open the box it will release humidity and lower temps.
There you have it!!! I am sure I forgot something. When you all figure it out let me know and I will clarify.
P. S. One of the many reasons I love this method is I can get a clutch in the incubator from pulling the female to closing the incubator door in no more than 15 min. -- often less. Makes it nice on the work days when you have more than one clutch to deal with. I think last season the girls would conspire to lay in 3's and 4's just to mess with me!!!
The best part is that I don't worry about whether my mix is too wet -- there is no moisture touching the egg!!!
I am sure you all have your own cutting/not cutting and when procedures. Mine always always fluctuate dependent upon mood and whether the clutch is one of those SPECIAL ones. I know -- they are ALL special!!!
These days, if I do cut early, I wait until day 54. I have cut at day 46 and got away with it. Would not tempt fate again. I just tell myself, "Hey Bonehead! Cutting them does not change what they are within each egg!!!" I always reply..."IT MIGHT"
HAPPY HATCHING!!!
Will do!!!"
-- Bill Buchman
"I must preface this explanation by saying that this is my second breeding season. I have ONLY used substrateless method and EVERYTHING I have ever hatched has been with that method, traditional method scares me.
This is what I did last season and am doing this season. It works WELL for ME - there are other ways that work WELL for OTHERS.
Last year my season consisted of 62 clutches -- 302 incubated eggs -- 67 slugs -- 10 infertile (candled bad - did not incubate). I don't cook anything that candles bad. I will cook small eggs, boob eggs, spotted eggs, ugly eggs -- just NOT eggs that candle yellow with no veins.
Of the 302 candled eggs that went into the incubator, 4 went bad (during first 3 weeks) and I had 3 kinked -- each from a different clutch. (2 severe) -- the other was a "tweaked egg stressed" KILLER BEE!!! That one hurt.
1.
I set set my Herpstat thermostat at 88.4 in the incubator -- NOT the egg box.
1 a.
SET-UP: I use 6 qrt. Sterlite shoe boxes. I have fit as many as nine eggs in a box. If I have a big clutch I can't fit in one box -- I use 2. I like to use the same containers within my incubators.
2.
Place 1-2 inches of dry mix in box. I have used 60/40 combination of perlite and vermiculite. I prefer 100% perlite. I have the better half of a big bag of vermiculite yet to use. When that is gone PERLITE will be the ticket. It does not conduct water to top/surface of mixture like vermiculite tends too. Therefore, it is better for substrateless method.
3.
Pour in 4-8 oz. of water. (I use tap water. Some people use distilled or put a smidge of chlorhexidine in water. Fresh tap water has worked fine for me). You should be able to see it gather on the bottom, but not sloshing around -- don't need much because almost NONE will escape during the 60 days of incubation.
4.
Place cut to size egg crate on top of level mixture. Remember that the idea is for the eggs NOT to touch the mix. But rather lay on TOP of the crate. I gently set it on and give a little wiggle side to side.
5.
Place eggs in. Center them so they don't touch the sides or top of box when closed. I have no set rule on whether I separate eggs before cooking. If the "pile" is to high to fit in container, I will take of a few off pile so as to fit in box. I don't use dental floss. I gently and slowly pull them apart -- never ripped one -- YET!!!
6.
Put piece of Press N Seal over the top and pull tight over the sides. Place lid on and snap tight. Be careful when putting box in bator. Eggs will roll if separated, and piles will slide to touch the side of the container -- don't want that. After 2-3 weeks, the eggs will flatten a bit and shifting boxes around will be no big deal. I am always shifting mine. During the second 30 days of incubation you will likely get some condensation on the top inside of box -- gathered on inside of Press N Seal. It usually will not drip on the eggs. If it does -- no worries. Eggs After day 40 or so won't be bothered by a drip or two on TOP of them.
I don't usually open the box AT ALL until last 2 weeks/day 45-48. At this time I will take OFF the plastic and put lid back on. This allows for respiration and heat transfer as interior egg temps will rise a bit over the last 2 weeks. If you are the one to check on eggs every week -- go for it. But I don't "breathe" my boxes as a rule, and every time you open the box it will release humidity and lower temps.
There you have it!!! I am sure I forgot something. When you all figure it out let me know and I will clarify.
P. S. One of the many reasons I love this method is I can get a clutch in the incubator from pulling the female to closing the incubator door in no more than 15 min. -- often less. Makes it nice on the work days when you have more than one clutch to deal with. I think last season the girls would conspire to lay in 3's and 4's just to mess with me!!!
The best part is that I don't worry about whether my mix is too wet -- there is no moisture touching the egg!!!
I am sure you all have your own cutting/not cutting and when procedures. Mine always always fluctuate dependent upon mood and whether the clutch is one of those SPECIAL ones. I know -- they are ALL special!!!
These days, if I do cut early, I wait until day 54. I have cut at day 46 and got away with it. Would not tempt fate again. I just tell myself, "Hey Bonehead! Cutting them does not change what they are within each egg!!!" I always reply..."IT MIGHT"
HAPPY HATCHING!!!
Will do!!!"
Monday, February 24, 2014
Rodents for SALE
Live rodents for sale, please email me with any questions. $20 minimum order required, thank you for looking!
Rats $3 any size
Mice $2 any size
Rats $3 any size
Mice $2 any size
Monday, February 10, 2014
Ball Python Breeding 2013-2014
I began my inaugural ball python breeding season by dropping cage temperatures in late October of 2013 then I introduced males to females beginning in November. I decided to try the Markus Jayne method for my first attempt at breeding balls. Below are some pictures of successful locks between my male and female balls. I'm currently setting up a new incubator and just recently turned my cage temperatures back up to 92 degrees. I've done some research and several breeders don't change temperatures year round. I might try that next time depending on the turn out from this season. One thing that I have learned from keeping reptiles is that you do what works best for you. Good luck and I'll hopefully be back with pictures of eggs and snakes hatching in the near future.
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| Orange Ghost het Car X Double het Glow |
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| Bumble Bee X Lemon Blast het Car |
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| Bumble Bee X Normal |
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| Mystic X BEL (Lesser Mojave) |
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